2007 Chateau du Trignon Gigondas

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Have you had a really good friend slowly vanish from your life for a number of years but then all of sudden make a re-entry quite unexpectedly? This was very much the feeling that I had this past week when I spied the Gigondas from Chateau du Trignon sitting on the shelf at The Butcher’s Block. I do not remember what the vintage was that I first had of this wine, but I do remember that at the time it was one of the best red wines that I had tasted. And for a number of years it was a regular in our wine cellar. Unfortunately, in this ever changing world of wine I seemed to have lost track of it but am very thankful to have rediscovered it.

Gigondas is part of the Cotes-du-Rhone region in Southern France. These wines are better known for their power more so than being finesse wines, but many offer complex layers of fruit and spice. They also hold up well with aging, most needing 3 or more years in the cellar before really showing what they can be. Most are expressions of bold spice and pair up well with hearty grilled meats but they also drink quite nicely by themselves. I even been known to enjoy a glass with a cigar, and that was also a nice pairing.

Chateau du Trignon has been owned by the Quiot family since 1896 and since then there have been 5 generations that have worked to improve the winery. Personally, I think that they are doing a pretty darn good job. The blend of grapes includes Cinsault, Grenache, Mourvedre and Syrah but the percentages change with each vintage depending on what each varietal offers in a given season. The inital nose of this bottle was a bold statement of fresh cracked pepper and dark fruit. While the nose initially was very powerful, the first taste of the newly opened bottle seemed very subdued in comparison, giving just hints of fruit. However, with some aeration in the glass it opened up and exhibited the spice, black cherry fruit, some licorice notes and a bit of smokiness and oak. The finish lingered long afterwards and continued to show a heady smokiness that was quite nice.

This was once again a stellar example of the Gigondas appellation and I am quite happy to have rediscovered it. These wines do not tend to be inexpensive, but neither are they crazy overpriced. At $26 I think that this is a good value for the quality and would not hesitate to recommend it or put it my own cellar.

Cheers!

2011 Tortoise Creek “Le Verger” Viognier

Tortoise Creek Viognier 2011

Sorry for such a long time since the last update; to say things have been hectic would only begin to describe my life of late.  Fortunately I think that things are close to normal again and I can once again devote some time to the blog.  I do have a backlog of tasting notes from the past couple of months and will be trying to get these up in the coming days so be sure and check back regularly.

Anyway, the first new wine I wanted to post was a nice alternative white wine from the Languedoc region of Southern France.  More specifically this wine is produced using grapes from the village of Argeliers.  The wine is 100% Viognier and is unoaked which we prefer in white wines.  Being unoaked allows the natural fruit profile of the viognier grape to express itself without the overpowering oaky nuances.

Overall this wine is a lighter style but feels much richer on the palate.  The wine has little acidity but is more fruit forward and leaves a long, lingering finish.  The nose smacks of passionfruit, peach and pear while the taste includes some apricot and honeysuckle.  In fact the “Le Verger” denotation refers to fields of apricot trees which surround the vineyard.

At $11, this is a reasonably priced white wine that offers up a lot of solid fruit character and weight common to chardonnay without the harsh oakiness.  I would consider this more of a sipping wine that a food wine, though it would pair well with simple seafood dishes.

Cheers!

Forks & Corks 2013 – Trade Tasting

I have frequently had people tell me how much fun it must be to be involved with the wine trade, whether full-time or part-time like myself.  I thought I would share a couple of comments to round out my 2013 Forks & Corks coverage with some highlights of Monday’s trade tasting.

Trade tastings are events that are not open to the general public but are intended for the visiting winery representatives to interact with local restauranteers, distributors and sales outlets.

My morning started at about 7:45 when I arrived at Michael’s On East.  The trade tasting is held in the ballroom, and as you can see there was not much there.

Pre-Setup

Due to an unforeseen accident the night before, myself and the rest of the crew involved with the setup basically had to start from scratch this morning to get the setup right.  Fortunately, with a lot of hard work it came off beautifully.

With the start of the event scheduled for 11 AM, we had just about 3 hours to setup tables for 41 different wineries, 10 tables for food and a table for the hospitality insurance company!  And once all of the tables were setup, the distributors and wineries had the task of getting their promotional displays out and setup, wines arranged and uncorked, whites placed in ice buckets, wines tasted for defects, and countless other small details.

Here are a couple of shots of the tasting in action, so you can see the amount of work that went into this:

Event 1 Event 2

Of course there are more tables behind where I was standing as well as outside in the courtyard!

The attendees started showing up on time and for the next 3 hours there was plenty of wine being poured and food being eaten!  All told we expected about 300 or so attendees and I would venture a guess that many of them did in fact show up.  So, while there is a lot of fun to these events it is also a lot of hard work by a large group of people.  Next time you are at any kind of tasting, remember to say thanks to those who make it happen!

Cheers!

Forks & Corks University 2013 – Big, Red & Beautiful

Well, so far we have had an excellent group of white wines in the morning session and then a lunch that was superb.  I think next year I’m going to recommend that a nap period be built into the program before the afternoon session!  But since that was not an option we plowed right into the afternoon session of red wines.

Again the session was moderated by Brian Koziol and consisted of vineyard owners, winemakers or others affiliated with the wines.  The panel consisted of:

Red Panel

Buck Milbrandt of Milbrandt Vineyards in Washington
Chris Phelps of Swanson Winery in California
Joseph Carr of Joseph Carr Napa Valley in California
Tom Porter of Porter Family Vineyards in California
Todd Anderson of Anderson’s Conn Valley Vineyards in California

We also tasted the wines of Caroline Ruffie of Chateau Haut Bages Liberal, who was also unable to join us due to flight issues.

Listed below are the wines in the order that we tasted them, along with general comments from the panel and our own tasting notes:

Red Flight

 

1) 2009 Chateau Ferriere, Margaux, FR – a typically Margaux nose that only hinted at the elegance to come.  Lots of black fruit on the palate which was concentrated and showed sweet tannins.

2) 2009 Chateau Haut-Bages Liberal, Pauillac, FR – peppercorn on the nose with concentrated alcohol vapors.  The fruit was extremely ripe, with earthy notes and slightly harsh tannins which suggest good aging potential.  75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Merlot.

Milbrandt Vineyards is a family owned winery that has been in the farming business for many years but only recently began growing wine grapes.  Their first vintage was in 2006 but have already garnered several 90+ and Best Buy designations from various wine journals.

3) 2010 Milbrandt Vineyards, The Estates Malbec, Wahluke Slope, WA – bright red fruit up front opened to rich earthiness on the finish.  While the earthy tones of malbec were present, this domestic version showed much more bright fruit.  1,000 cases produced and a blend of 88% Malbec, 11% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Merlot.

4) 2010 Milbrandt Vineyards, The Estates Cabernet Sauvignon, Wahluke Slope, WA – a bit of a lighter styled cabernet, as cooler weather cabernets tend to be, blended with merlot and petit verdot.  Showed some sweet tannins on the finish.

Chris Phelps served as winemaker for a Bordeaux Chateau during the blockbuster 1982 vintage, was invited to join Dmonius Estate in California by Christian Moueix of Chateau Petrus and spent 7 years at Caymus Vineyards before moving to Swanson Vineyards.

5) 2008 Swanson Vineyards Merlot, Oakville, Napa Valley, CA – a bold, firm merlot with black fruit and a solid body.  Good tannins suggest some aging potential.  92% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Petit Verdot

6) 2008 Swanson Vineyards “Alexis” Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, CA – bright fruit up front with firm tannins throughout.  Easy drinking now but can age easily.  Licorice, black cherry and saddle leather notes of a typical cabernet profile.  86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12 % Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot

Joseph Carr doesn’t grow grapes or own a winery but bottles some excellent wines by purchasing quality grapes from various sources.  His rationale is to make something that you want to drink and something that you’d like to have in your cellar.

7) 2010 Joseph Carr Merlot, Napa Valley, CA – lots of dark fruit and mocha notes were somewhat overpowered by gritty tannins up front.  Could be a really good merlot but we think it needs some time to open up.

8) 2009 Joseph Carr, Cabernet Sauvignon Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley, CA – a simply beautiful cabernet with silk, black fruit, licorice, sweet tannin and a superb balance.  Probably the highlight of the afternoon session.

After retiring to the Sarasota area Tom Porter realized that he was not ready to be retired and decided to purchase a winery.  In 2005 he did just that in Napa Valley when he purchased 20 acres and then constructed a 17,000 square foot underground cave to house the winery!  The Cave Dwellers blend is a salute to this underground facility.

9) 2009 Porter Family Vineyards Cave Dwellers Blend, Napa Valley, CA – a good bit of syrah gives this a lot of red fruit nuances.  Some nice tannins and a faintly port-like nose made this an interesting wine.

10) 2006 Porter Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, CA – classic cabernet with minerality, vanilla and buttery oak and saddle leather on the finish.  85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Syrah and 3% Merlot.

Todd Anderson says that he attends these events to try other wines that he might like in his cellar.

11)  2009 Anderson’s Conn Valley Vineyards Right Bank Red, Napa Valley, CA – a play on classic right bank Bordeaux, this is a blend of 60% Cabernet and 40% Merlot.  Very smooth, nicely balanced with great black fruit.

12) 2009 Anderson’s Conn Valley Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, CA – nice cabernet with mocha and dark fruit notes throughout.

Cheers!

Forks & Corks University 2013 – Lunch

As mentioned in our first post, with both the half-day and full-day Forks & Corks University seminars you are treated to a special lunch prepared by various restaurants that are part of the Sarasota-Manatee Fresh Originals.  There were 4 courses being served, each paired with a wine and prepared by different restaurants.

The first course consisted of 3 appetizers and was prepared by The Savory Street International Cafe & Bakery.  The 3 appetizers were a Mini Crab Fritter and Cactus Salad with “Queso Blanco”, Mini Ceviche de Pescado and Mini Empanadas Arengtinas.  Unfortunately I did not get a picture of the empanadas.

 Crab Fritter Ceviche

Crab Fritter and Ceviche

Paired with the appetizers was 2007 Elstree Cuvee Brut Sparkling Wine from Highfield Estates.  A sparkling wine made in the traditional methode champenoise and consisting of 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir.  A bit yeasty, with good fruit balance.  This sparkling gets both steel and oak fermentation.

The Bijou Cafe served the second course of Seared Scallop with Chipotle Slaw finished with Grilled Pineapple Relish.  This one had a bit of heat to it, and the wine pairing was an excellent counterpoint.

Scallop

The wine pairing for the second course was 2011 Riesling, Willamette Valley Vineyards.  This wine was a Best of Show winner in the wine judging event.  Slightly sweet, with notes of honeyed apricots this balanced the heat of the dish perfectly.

The third course was from The Crow’s Nest, south of us in Venice, FL.  Root Beer Braised Short Ribs served over Cheesy Stone Ground Grits garnished with Pickled Vegetables.  These ribs were excellent, although the pickled vegetables did not seem to be the best choice of garnish.

Short Ribs

Paired with the short ribs was the 2009 Daniel Gehrs Syrah.  While not a big fan of domestic syrah, this did have a nice earthiness and spice to pair well with the dish.  Not as much bright red fruit as in many but still a bit fruit forward for us.

The dessert from Ceviche was a Tres Leches Meringue Cake with Three Fresh Creams and Nutmeg.  This is always one of my favorite desserts, and for some reason I always forget about it except for on this day every year!

Dessert

The wine pairing for dessert was the Quady Elysium from Quady Winery.  This is a sweet red wine that no one at our table particularly cared for.  The nose is rich and opulent, but unfortunately the taste for us was cherry cough syrup.  Definitely not our style, although the wine itself is well made — this is just our personal preference on this one!

Cheers!

Forks & Corks University 2013 – A World of White

On Saturday, January 26 we had the opportunity to once again attend the Sarasota-Manatee Fresh Original’s Forks & Corks University. Forks & Corks University is either a half-day or full-day seminar lead by winemakers, owners or representatives from wineries participating in the Forks & Corks events. Both the half-day and full-day seminar also includes a special lunch prepared by various restaurants who are members of the Sarasota-Manatee Fresh Originals group. As we did last year, we opted to attend the full day seminar. The morning session was “A World of White” and the afternoon session was “Big, Red & Beautiful.”

The moderator for both sessions was Brian Koziol, a Master Sommelier who is the Sales Director for Stacole Fine Wines in Florida. In December, a wine judging competition was held as part of the Forks & Corks event, and I had the privilege of being a judge as was Brian. With a career spanning 19 years in the industry, he was aptly suited for his role as moderator.

The morning session as mentioned above was devoted to white wines, and we sampled a range of wines from around the world. Participating in the panel were:

White Panel

Alistair Soper of Highfield Estate in Marlborough, New Zealand
Eric Dulong of Chateau Fonfroide in Bordeaux
Leonardo Locascio of Winebow
Bertrand Ambroise of Maison Bertrand Ambroise in Burgundy
Phillipe Ehrhart of Domaine Ehrhart in Alsace

We also tasted wines from Domaine du Vieux Lazaret in Chateauneuf du Pape. Unfortunately, Jerome Quiot was unable to attend due to his late arriving flight to the states.

Listed below are the wines in the order that we tasted them, along with our notes about each:

White Flight

All of the Highfield Estate sauvignon blancs are freerun juice see about 2-3% barrel fermentation. All have Stelvin closures. It was an interesting comparison to see an older vintage alongside a recent one.
1) 2011 Highfield Estate, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, NZ – this sauvignon blanc showed a very traditional New Zealand nose full of citrus and freshly cut grass. There was tart acidity, but this was well balanced with the bright citrus fruit which showed predominately passionfruit.
2) 2007 Highfield Estate, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, NZ – no, that is not a typo… we did in fact taste a 5 year old sauvignon blanc. The nose was much earthier and herbaceous but the palate still showed lots of tropical fruits

Eric Dulong explained that this Bordeaux Blanc sees 100% stainless steel fermentation and is a blend of 70% Semillon, 25% sauvignon blanc and 5% muscadelle. He belongs it should be drunk with 2-4 years of bottling.
3) 2011 Ch. Fonfroide Blanc, Bordeaux, FR – this was an interesting white Bordeaux, showing loamy earth on the nose with stone & minerality on the palate with rich full-bodied floral notes. A clean acidity balanced the wine nicely.

Leonardo Locasio is the founder of Winebow, which is the leading import of Italian wines to the US. Soave has a bad reputation from the 1970’s and early 1980’s, where it was mass produced and/or mislabeled by certain American wine makers. However, it is an excellent food wine as demonstrated here. Vermentino is becoming a more prevalent bottling, and this was a classic representation of the varietal.
4) 2011 Allegrini Soave, Veneto, IT – a bit of a softer, more rounded wine rather than the bright, acidic styles that we previously had tasted. Good fruit, predominately apple with a lengthy finish.
5) 2010 Vermentino “Solosole”, Poggio al Tesoro, Tuscany, IT – a big tropical fruit nose, with stone fruit and a nice bit of minerality on the finish.

Bertrand Ambroise is a fixture of the Forks & Corks event, and is always a pleasure to interact with. Both of the burgundies that he showed were excellent as always. The Saint-Romain Blanc receives 12-14 months of barrel aging, giving it that nice toasty body.
6) 2009 Maison Bertrand Ambroise Saint-Romain Blanc, Cote de Beaune, FR – a bolder nose with toasty almond notes gave way to caramel and peach on the palate.
7) 2009 Maison Bertrand Ambroise “Terres Blanches”, Nuits Saint Georges Premier Cru, FR – a bit more subdued on the initial nose with a nice balance of fruit, white floral notes and toasty oak.

This white Chateauneuf-du-Pape is a blend consisting of about 70% Grenache Blac & Clariette Blanc, 20% Bourboulenc and 5-7% Roussanne. He didn’t give specific percentages, which is why they don’t total 100. Of course, as with red Chateauneuf-du-Pape, there can be several other grapes incorporated in the blend. Suggested aging of this wine could be from 5-10 years after bottling.
8) 2009 Famille Quiot Domaine du Vieux Lazaret Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, Rhone, FR – hints of apple and spice

Phillipe Ehrhart shared 2 Grand Cru wines from the Alsace region of France. Considering how very few Grand Cru’s are actually produced, this was indeed a rare treat. He indicated that all of the vineyards sit on steep slopes that face SSE which gives ideal conditions for growing.
9) 2009 Domaine Ehrhart Riesling “Hengst”, Alsace Grand Cru, FR – typical Riesling nose of petrol with ripe apricot that was somewhat viscous on the finish.
10) Domaine Ehrhart Gewurztraminer “Hengst”, Alsace Grand Cru, FR – sweet, spicy nose with honey and a rich, floral palate.

A nice finish to the morning session was this rose and incorporates the traditional grapes of the area including Grenache, syrah and mourvedre.
11) 2011 Famille Quiot Domaine Houchart Cotes de Provence Rose, Provence, FR – roses and floral notes on the nose, with white pepper spice, bright red fruit a balanced acidity on the palate.